How To Set Cb Radio
CB radios.
Everybody uses them on the trail then hither are a few tips and a couple of tricks and a myth or 2.
Do i need a licence to operate a CB radio? No, upwardly until December 2006 information technology was Great britain law to obtain an operators licence if u where using acb radio for commercial or domestic apply. The good news now is that the law has changed and CB radio is now licence free.
There are a number of things which every bit drivers on the roads in the U.k. we are not permitted to do; one of these is drive whilst using a mobile telephone.
What about using Radios to Communicate?
This is an exception to the legislation that allows vehicle drivers to employ two way radios to communicate providing the radio does not too double upward as a mobile phone. This allows couriers, ambulance drivers and other emergency service personnel to communicate likewise as drivers of private taxi cabs Radio Amateurs andCB radio Users.
Terminology:
VSWR (swar) this is a ratio of the reflected power (contrary voltage) on your transmission line, the coax. It is merely that, a ratio, so at that place is no such thing as SWAR. It is Voltage Standing wave ratio and the closer you tin get to 1:ane the better.
RF or radio frequency is measured in kilohertz, megahertz or gigahertz. CB radios operate on 26-27 MHz (11M band.)
RX stands for receive andTXstands for transmit.
Watts this is how the RF power output is measured.
Wavelength is the bodily length of the radio moving ridge in free space.
FM frequency modulation.
AM amplitude modulation.
HF 0 to 30 MHZ
VHF 30 to 300 Mhz
UHF 300 Mhz to 3 Ghz
All the higher up with the exception of the amateur radio, Air and war machine bands usesFM orAM modulation. legal United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland CB radios useFM
Coaxused for mobile CB radio is commonly rg58u or rg58au some other myth is that cutting the coax to a sure length is the best manner to help with VSWR. This is totally false. the only affair y'all practise past cut the coax to a i/4 wave length or half wave length etc is to fool your wattmeter. all-time is to make the coax 5.8m (17′) .
Antennas: A standard 1/4 moving ridge length antenna for CB's and mounted properly with a adept ground plane volition get y'all out super.The trick to get a good working antenna system is proper mounting. The farther away from large metal obstructions y'all can become it and the higher you tin can mount it the better information technology volition perform. an antenna mounted on the mirror frame does not work well simply because there is no metal under it for a ground plane.the footing plane is electrically the other half of the antenna. Another thing to stay away from is an antenna that has most of the windings most or at the bottom of the "stick" because an antenna radiates from the summit. Take a look at a good FireStik or K40 antenna, the loading is at the superlative, that is the reason these antennas piece of work well!
Power cables. Most mod rigs have a proficient source for powering a CB within the cab just, take intendance non to tap into a fuse, wire or cablevision packet that has the YELLOW airbag or ECM wires in it or you may get a surprise. Keep the ground wire inside the cab instead of running information technology all the way into the battery and keep the ground wire brusk. This helps proceed the radio from picking up spark dissonance and alternator noises. Every bit with any wire job keep the fuse as close to the source as you tin for prophylactic reasons. I know virtually stuff comes with the fuse shut to the radio etc but, spend a few quid and put a fuse at the power source.
Did you know the little ball at the tip of metal antennas has a part? Information technology is to disperse the static electricity the antenna picks upwardly as it is whipped through the air.
A 5 amp fuse is normally plenty for all modern CB radios.
When attaching the basis wire use a star washer to get a skillful bite into the metal.Most problems with wire jobs are due to a poor grounding.
Then on to setting the VSWR or tuning the antenna.
A citizens band (CB) radio antenna is a device designed to do ii things: It capturesRadioFrequency signals that are and so converted to electrical signals by the receiver, and it takes electrical signals from the transmitter and converts them into radio-frequency signals. This 2nd function is where tuning comes into play, considering an antenna has to effectivelyradiate radio-frequency signals, something that's done best when the length of the antenna precisely matches the wavelength of the transmitted radio frequency.
You lot tin can make up one's mind the proper length of an antenna by using a formula:
Wavelength (in feet) = 984 / frequency (in megahertz)
The CB portion of the spectrum begins at 25.01 megahertz, so a full wavelength antenna would be a chip more than 39.34 anxiety long. That's obviously a little long to adhere to your bumper, so people tend to use antennas that are a fraction of the wavelength: one/2, 5/viii, 1/four and 1/eight are all common wavelengths for antennas. In the instance of CB, the one/iv antenna at simply under 10 anxiety long is the common "whip" that you may come across on cars and trucks.
The problem is that there are twoscore channels on modern CB transceivers, each corresponding to a different frequency. It's not practical to take a separate antenna for each frequency, then antenna designers have to compromise, usually picking a frequency in the middle of the spread and choosing the antenna length to correspond.
When a compromise similar this is made, y'all have to run across whether it's a good compromise. This is done by measuring the Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) of the antenna and cable between the antenna and tuning the antenna until the SWR is acceptable.
Every antenna and every antenna feed-line have a featureimpedance, or opposition to electric current. In an platonic situation, the impedances of line and antenna match perfectly, and 100 percent of the electrical energy sent to the antenna is converted to radio energy and radiated into the temper. In a less than ideal case, when the impedances aren't perfectly matched, some of the electrical energy sent to the antenna won't exist converted to radio energy, simply will be reflected dorsum downward the feed-line. The energy reflecting back from the antenna causesstanding waves of electrical energy in the feed-line. (An instance of standing waves outside the electronics earth is plant in river rapids. When water passes around and between boulders it may course a wave that doesn't get upward or down the river, information technology only stays in i identify. That is a standing wave of water.) The ratio of highest voltage on the line to lowest is the standing wave ratio. In the perfectly matched system, the SWR is 1:1.
To melody an antenna, use an SWR meter attached between the transmitter and antenna feed-line. Depending on the meter, yous can either use a button on the meter to generate a signal on the various channels, or key the microphone on the CB transceiver to generate a point while you expect at the SWR reading. In general, if the SWR never goes above 1.5:1, yous're in good shape. If the SWR does go above 1.five:i, and so watch the meter on different frequencies to see the tendency develop: The SWR will be greater either on the higher channels or the lower. If the SWR is greater on the lower channels, then attempt gradually lengthening the antenna by moving it in the base. If the SWR is greater on the higher channels, endeavour shortening the antenna.
Exercise be aware that the electrical ground of the antenna, the structure effectually the antenna and whatever other antennas near the CB antenna can all affect the antenna's impedance and the SWR. There are plenty variables that tuning an antenna blends art and science, but your equipment and radio contacts volition all exist grateful if you have the time to melody up.
Equipment needed: SWR meter, curt (50cm) patch atomic number 82.
Procedure: The SWR meter needs to be placed in line between the antenna and the CB. Connect the antenna (usually connected to the back of the CB ) to the connector marked "Antenna" or "Emmet" on your SWR Meter. Connect one end of the patch lead to the "transmit" or "Xmit" on the SWR meter. Connect the other end to the CB.
Assuming you accept a standard SWR meter the switches should read as follows: REF or SWR, FWD, and there should be a slide switch marked "set" or "Adjust". If different consult your meter's user transmission.
With the radio on the lowest channel (1 on CB) and the SWR meters switch in the Forrad (FWD) position, depress the transmit switch (key up) located on the microphone. While holding the unit in this transmit mode, adjust the meter needle to the set position using the Set or Arrange knob on the meter. Equally soon as the needle is in alignment with the corresponding marking on the meter face up, flip the switch to the Reference (REF) position. The meter is at present showing your SWR on aqueduct 1. Note the value and quickly release the microphone switch. Tape this reading.
Repeat the previous footstep on channels nineteen and 40.
How to read your results:If SWR on channels one, 19 & 40 is below 2.0, your radio can be operated safely.
If SWR on all channels is to a higher place two.0 but not in the "red zone" (normally over 3.0), you may be experiencing coaxial cablevision reaction (bad quality, incorrect length, etc.), insufficient basis plane, or have an ungrounded antenna mountain.
If SWR is in the "ruby zone" on all channels, you probably have an electric brusque in your coax connectors, or your mounting stud was installed incorrectly and is shorted.Exercise non operate your radio until the problem is constitute, serious harm can occur to your radio.
If SWR on the lowest aqueduct is higher than it is on the highest channel, your antenna system appears to exist electrically short. Your antenna length may need to be increased.
If the SWR on aqueduct 40 is greater than that on channel 1, your antenna is considered to be "LONG" and reduction of concrete top and/or conductor length volition correct this state of affairs
Good luck
SWR AND COAX
THIS Page IS Big BUT LOT'S OF Expert INFO HERE
WHEN You GET Washed YOU WILL KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON
AND WHY!!
SWR TESTING OF MOBILE TRANSMIT ANTENNAS
SWR (standing moving ridge ratio) is a term every CB'er should know. SWR (measured with an SWR meter) shows you how well your coax, antenna mount, ground plane and antenna match the output capability of your CB radio. It is a ratio of maximum voltage or current to minimum voltage or current. Generally speaking, the lower the ratio the better. Defective or inferior components, bad installations and antennas not tuned to the specific location on the vehicle increases the SWR. You should strive to accomplish a ratio below two:1 on all channels.
Before measuring and setting SWR, it is helpful to know some of the things that can crusade problems. Spend a few minutes to read this entire pamphlet and you will go into your project with valuable cognition. Information technology could salve you a lot of time, endeavor and possibly, money.
Unlike receive only antennas (AM/FM radio, TV, scanner), antennas that transmit require tuning. Antenna manufacturers can supply yous with an antenna that is pre-tuned to the general frequency of the intended equipment, but they cannot promise you perfect performance "out of the box". The six needed components for a mobile installation are the radio, ability feed, coaxial cable, antenna mount, antenna, and ground plane (counterpoise). Even if the manufacturer supplies yous with an entire kit (coax, mount & antenna), this, in well-nigh cases, leaves you without the counterpoise requirement. There is an exception to this general rule; antenna systems that employ the coax cable as a counterpoise. These no-ground-plane kits are generally marketed to owners of fiberglass vehicles. However, for most applications, the mobile antenna will use the vehicle's body as counterpoise. Unless otherwise stated, the post-obit information pertains to installations that Do Non utilize coaxial counterpoise antennas.
The vehicle, in mobile installations, is just equally important as the antenna and other components. The antenna is the radiating unit, the vehicle is the reflecting unit. All transmit antennas need a cogitating unit. What effect does the vehicle have? Enough! If y'all were to install and tune your antenna on a bumper mountain so motility it to the roof, you would come across a change in the SWR. This is due to the change in the antenna's position relative to the vehicle surface. Location is important.
Information technology isn't e'er feasible, or applied to mount the antenna in the optimum position on whatever vehicle. Nonetheless, whenever you gear up aside performance for convenience, yous will demand to settle for what you can become. Regardless, program on tuning your antenna. Tuned antennas will requite you the best performance you lot can expect from an antenna mounted in whatsoever given location. Almost of all, think that untested installations can price yous large bucks. Operating transmitting radios when the SWR is over 3:one can damage the radios circuits. Always check your SWR and tune your antenna.
At that place is a lot to know about transmitting antennas. Fifty-fifty if you have your system installed by a professional, information technology is helpful for y'all to know what tin can effect its performance. The following listing was compiled from 20 plus years of technical support files. It represents the areas where most of the performance robbing problems crop upwardly. Nosotros highly recommend that you read it. The issues and solutions came from real life situations. Starting with noesis is always better than learning from disappointment. A step past step SWR measuring and antenna tuning process follows this very informative listing.
THINGS EVERY CB'ER SHOULD KNOW
- Every industry has its bottom dwellers. We cannot protect you from them. Consumers who make decisions based strictly on cost, or on what someone says instead of what they can practice, volition often fall prey to the bottom dwellers.
- Beware of information from "experts" (existent or cocky-proclaimed). In that location is antenna theory and there is antenna reality. We have yet to see a vehicle that simulates a lab. While theory is a good starting place…experience is the only identify to end up. The best book on theory will produce the worst antenna you could own.
- Some "experts" may "merits" 5/8 wave mobile antennas are not possible considering they would need to be 23 feet loftier. They are wrong! Physical length and footing wave performance are not the same. If you always hear someone make that merits, ask them how a handheld CB can have a 1/iv wave antenna 8 inches long and ane/4 wave mobile antennas from 12-threescore inches long in spite of the fact that a physical 1/4 wave is 108 inches.
- Never key up or try to operate your CB without a working antenna or "dummy load" (non-radiating antenna simulating device) connected to the radios antenna jack, unless you have extra money to purchase some other radio.
- All mobile and base of operations transmitting antennas need counter-poise, more normally called ground plane. The antenna is the reactive unit, the ground plane is the reflective unit. Neither is more important than the other. In mobile installations with standard antenna systems, the vehicle metal (torso, frame, etc.) acts as the ground airplane. In "no-footing-plane" systems, the coax shield is used for counterpoise.
- Nearly, but not all, manufacturers pre-tune their mobile antennas on a examination bench. To protect your radio's circuitry and attain optimum operation, mobile transmitting antennas (CB, cell phone, amateur, etc.) need to be tuned on the vehicle.
- Earlier transmitting, you should check your antenna arrangement for shorts or opens. If you have continuity between the center pin of the connector and the outer threaded housing, you may have a short. Don't transmit! If you do not discover continuity betwixt the heart pivot of the coax and the antenna base, you have an open. Gear up it. (Meet "Testing Continuity") Exceptions: Some base loaded antennas use a center tap design and there will be continuity from ground to center conductor. Besides, Firestik "No Basis Airplane" antenna kits volition have coaxial eye pin to ground continuity.
- SWR that pegs the needle on all channels almost always indicates a curt in your antenna arrangement. Practice not endeavor to tune the antenna until the curt is fixed. Operating with loftier SWR volition probably damage your CB'south internal circuits.
- Make sure that the antenna y'all are using is the right antenna for your application. Don't use a Idiot box antenna or an AM/FM antenna for your CB. Do non operate your CB without an antenna or dummy load.
- Transmitting antennas are sensitive to objects in their "near field of radiation." Melody your antennas in an open surface area. Never melody within or next to a edifice, near or under trees, nigh or under power lines, and never with a person holding or standing adjacent to the antenna. Attempt to simulate normal operating conditions.
- If yous mount 2 or more antennas close to each other, y'all will alter the transmission patterns of each one. The impact may be either positive or negative. We recommend that a minimum of 12″ exist betwixt your CB antenna and other types of antennas.
- Your radio cannot tell one component from another. As far as the radio is concerned, the coax, stud mount, mounting bracket, antenna and vehicle is ONE unit. Don't exist too quick to fault your antenna until you are sure that all of the other components have been given equal consideration.
- Of all antennas returned to Firestik for warranty service, 75% evidence no signs of being tuned to the vehicle. All antennas should be checked prior to use. Near will crave some adjustment. Less than 3% of all returned antennas take bodily operation causing problems. Of those, half of the bug are user or installer created. High SWR and other performance problems are 20 times more likely to exist acquired by bad coax, bad connections, shorted mounts, poor installation location or faulty exam meters.
- In virtually every instance, once you get the same SWR reading on channels ane and 40, further antenna tuning will not improve the readings. If the SWR is still over ii:i, you have other problems to conquer. Exception: At that place are rare occasions when the ground aeroplane is and then modest or large that the organisation is way out of phase (especially with high-operation antennas). If you accept loftier SWR on all channels and have confirmed that yous have no opens or shorts in the feedline, try making a small tuning aligning in the antenna. There are times when the SWR will drib as beyond all channels under unusual ground plane atmospheric condition. If yous notice this to exist the example, carefully adjust the antenna.
- SWR that is loftier on all channels (over 2:1 but non pegging the needle) later the antenna has been tuned normally indicates a basis airplane or coax cable problem.
- The doors, mirrors, spare tire racks, baggage racks, etc. on many vehicles are insulated from a good footing with nylon or safe bushings. This likewise stands truthful for fiberglass vehicles. Make sure that your antenna mountain is grounded, even if it entails running a footing wire to the vehicle chassis. Bad difficult ground at the mount generally equates to less than optimum performance. Exception: No ground aeroplane antenna kits do not require a grounded mountain.
- If you are hearing whining noises from your radio while your vehicle is running, information technology is probably due to "dirty power" beingness supplied to the radio. Under dash ability may be more than user-friendly, but the "cleanest" power will exist found past running the radio'due south power leads straight to the battery.
- You lot can never buy coax cable that is too good for your system. Never compromise quality for toll when purchasing coax. Your best bet is to stick with coax that has a stranded middle conductor and 90% or higher shielding.
- Virtually manufacturers of high performance antennas recommend a specific length of coax cable. If your antenna manufacturer suggests a specific length, give priority to that recommendation.
- If your ground plane is good, your mount grounded and, your antenna favorably located, coax length rarely becomes an issue. But, if one or more mismatches occur, you may find high SWR. This can often be corrected by using 18 feet lengths of high quality coax.
- Excess coax between your radio and antenna mount should never be wound into a circular coil of less than 12″ in diameter. Doing so can cause system problems. Your best option for handling excess coax is to serpentine the cable into a 12 to 18 inch yarn-like skein. Secure the skein in the center with a wire tie and tuck it away.
- Single antenna installations crave coax with approximately 50 ohm's of resistance (RG-58/U, RG-58 A/U or RG-8X). Dual antenna installations require the use of 72 ohm cable (RG-59/U or RG-59 A/U).
- Coaxial cables with foam (polyfoam) center usher insulation should be your last choice for utilise on mobile (vehicle) installations. Even though information technology will work initially, it has limited life and does non stand up to the weather condition encountered in the mobile environs. Choose coax with polyvinyl insulation when doing mobile installs.
- Coax cables should never be cut and spliced together like mutual electrical wire. Line losses will occur.
- Coaxial cable with holes in the outer insulation, astringent bends, or door, trunk or hood caused pinches volition cause operation problems. Treat your coax with care.
- If you live in an area where pelting and/or sleet is mutual, wipe your antenna down with a rag that has been coated with WD-twoscore, Armor-All, Pledge, low-cal oil, etc. This trick prevents ice build up that tin can overload and cause your antenna to pause. In an emergency employ butter, cooking oil or anything else that will repel water.
- When tuning your antenna(s), make certain that you do so with the vehicle doors, hood and trunk closed. If left open up, they can cause inaccurate SWR readings. Try to simulate actual operating conditions.
- Mobile antennas, for all-time performance, should have no less than 60% of their overall length above the vehicles roof line. For co-phased antennas to perform optimally, the space between the peak 60% of the 2 antennas needs to be unobstructed.
- Call up, all transmitting antennas need ground plane (counterpoise). Base antennas, much similar "no ground plane" antennas, build it in. Exercise not apply mobile antennas for base of operations station applications unless you know how to build your own ground plane.
- If y'all are installing a single antenna on one side or the other of your vehicle, best on-the-road operation will be realized if the antenna is on the passenger side of the vehicle.
- Co-phased (dual) antenna installations create a radiation pattern that favors communication directly in front and dorsum of the vehicle. This is why co-phase systems are popular with people who exercise a lot of highway driving. Co-stage antennas must be eye or top loaded. Peak loaded antennas are the best.
- Some people believe that co-phased antennas must be separated by a minimum of nine (9) feet. We have successfully used co-phase antenna systems with spacing as little as four (4) feet. Space alters the pattern and not always negatively. Each vehicle will be different.
- Co-phase antennas tin can meliorate performance on vehicles that lack good ground airplane characteristics (fiberglass motorhomes, trucks, etc.). Instead of using available metal to reflect the radiated energy, the antennas use each others field.
- When tuning co-phased antennas (dual), it is best to adjust both antennas an equal amount to maintain equality in their private resonant frequency.
- On a co-stage arrangement, if you attempt to tune each antenna independently using RG-58 type coax and then connect them to the co-phasing harness, you lot volition almost always find that they volition appear electrically short as a prepare. Nosotros recommend that you commencement assemble the entire system. Accept all measurements and brand all adjustments with both antennas in place.
- If you are experiencing SWR that is loftier across the unabridged ring and take eliminated shorts, opens, baseless mounts and coax as potential bug, suspect lack of ground plane. Try adding a spring or quick disconnect to the antenna base of operations. In some cases, the repositioning of the antenna relevant to bachelor ground airplane will solve the problem.
- One of the greatest benefits of the FS serial (patented tunable tip) antenna is noted when in that location is lack of available ground plane. If the tuning spiral reaches its "maximum out" position before satisfactory SWR is realized, a common 1/four-20 threaded commodities or screw of a longer length can be used to supersede the supplied tuning screw. If the vinyl cap is as well brusque to remain in identify, the user tin can condone information technology or prune a hole in the peak for the longer screw to pass through.
- In rare instances, like antennas mounted in the middle of a metal van roof, excess ground plane can cause a trouble. This usually shows up equally loftier SWR across the ring. In these cases, a tunable tip antenna may not be the best choice. The reason being, the antenna is likewise long and the tunable tip cannot adjust down far enough (see line 40). If you suspect this, an antenna that wire can be removed from will unremarkably fit the bill (i.e. KW or RP series).
- There may be situations when a tunable tip will bottom out before optimum tuning is accomplished. If this happens, try removing the knurled jam nut and finger tighten the tuning spiral against the o-ring. If yet too long, remove the tuning screw altogether. If total removal causes the antenna to go short, cut the tuning screw in half and re-insert it into the tuning extender and re-test. The following items on the FS Series "tunable tip" antennas, when removed, will have an upshot on SWR (in order from least outcome to nearly effect). O-band, jam nut, tuning screw mass (cutting off length), vinyl cap, tuning screw complete.
- The vinyl cap on any "tunable tip" Firestik antennas is optional. However, your antenna needs to exist tuned as information technology volition be used . . . with or without the tip.
- Magnetic mounts should be used in temporary situations only. If you leave them in the same spot for a long period, the paint will not age like that of the uncovered areas and/or moisture will exist trapped between the mount and vehicle causing rust or discoloration. Periodically lift the magnet and gently clean off the underside of the magnet and the vehicle surface.
- It is a bad idea to utilise magnetic mounts and amplifiers together. Magnetic mounts rely on capacitance grounding. This situation tin literally cause the paint under the mountain to bubble or discolor due to excessive oestrus build up.
- On wire-wound antennas that require wire removal for tuning purposes, best overall performance will be achieved by keeping the loose terminate of the wire pressed downwards tightly against the wire scroll. If you use power amplification on top loaded antennas and do non procedure the cease of the wire load so it can dissipate its heat into other adjacent coils, you can melt the tip of the antenna.
- More often than not speaking, center loaded antennas perform better than base loaded antennas, and height loaded antennas perform better than all. For any given antenna design (base, centre or top loaded), the taller the antenna the amend. With length comes a wider bandwidth (lower SWR over more channels), more power treatment adequacy and overall performance increases.
- When ultimate mobile functioning is desired, function should be given precedence over mounting location convenience and advent.
- Don't confuse SWR with overall functioning. Yous should seek SWR of two:1 or lower on channel ane and forty, simply proceed in mind that all-time performance may not exist establish at the everyman SWR readings. For the near part, if you lot get your SWR below 2:1, on both ends of the ring, don't exist overly concerned about using meter tricking procedures that bleed off energy.
- The SWR meters congenital into CB radios are okay for general readings, but are rarely sensitive and/or accurate enough for fine tuning of antennas. Use them generally to indicate serious high SWR issues just.
- Firestik has tested literally hundreds of SWR meters. A large pct of these have shown to exist off by 0.iii to 0.7 when compared to a slice of certified equipment. There is no standard amid product meters. Withal, unless a unit is defective, most will indicate the most serious problems that you might run across
- Bated from cost, the type of wire used in or on antennas (copper, silver, aluminum, golden, tinned, etc.) has negligible effect on antenna performance. The antenna must be designed to resonate with the wire type and gauge chosen by the designer. However, larger wire gauges will ordinarily increase the bandwidth and heat dissipation abilities of the antenna.
- Copper is 55% meliorate than aluminum, 27% better than gold and 578% better than tin insofar as conductivity is concerned. Silverish will comport Ac/DC current less than 2.5% more than efficiently than copper, but the cost to performance is more often than not unjustified and any gain, insofar as RF manual is concerned, is negligible.
- If devices other than an SWR meter are going to be used between the CB radio and antenna, e'er tune the antenna system first without that device in line. If SWR is loftier with the other device in line, y'all will know where the problem is.
- In "no basis airplane" systems, it is best to cull a system that terminates the coaxial basis at the radio cease of the cable. These systems are far less reactive to cable routing errors and will almost always outperform systems that are terminated at the antenna base or antenna end of the coax.
- Cables and antennas from standard & no-ground plane kits are not interchangeable. The "No Ground Plane" antennas from Firestik take a yellowish band near the base.
- Wire wound antennas with a plastic outer blanket will greatly reduce audible RF static when compared to metallic whip antennas.
- If you exit your antenna on your vehicle permanently, remove the rubber o-ring that is found on the threaded base of some antennas. Tighten permanent antennas with a wrench. Add together a lock washer if y'all want.
- If yous use mirror mounts and often find yourself in areas with overhead obstructions, tighten the bolts but enough to continue the antenna vertical at highway speeds. If the antenna contacts something overhead, the mount will rotate on the mirror arm and protect your antenna.
- If you employ long antennas and find that they curve as well far dorsum at highway speeds, tilt them forward if possible. When under a wind load, they will finish up in a relatively vertical position.
- On antennas that are topped off with a vinyl tip, make sure that you lot have your SWR measurements with the tip in place. If you tune your antenna with the tip off and then reinstall the tip, your SWR volition modify.
- Without advocating the use of power amplifiers or unauthorized channels, take notation that the Firestik Two tunable tip antennas have a fairly big metallic tip that broadens the bandwidth and dissipates a considerable amount of heat.
- It is illegal to utilise power amplifiers with CB radios. It is illegal to "tweak" the radios internal circuits to increase output power. The transmitter power of a legal, FCC certified CB radio is four watts AM.
- If having 1 antenna for CB/AM/FM is highly-seasoned, use a CB antenna and a splitter that allows it to exist continued to your AM/FM radio. Devices that allow you lot use your AM/FM antenna for CB apply will leave yous disappointed.
- On a upkeep? Buy a cheap radio and a proficient antenna. Bated from added bells and whistles, all CB'southward are FCC regulated to transmit no more iv watts of power. A proficient antenna on an inexpensive radio will almost always outperform a bad antenna on an expensive radio.
- Beware of the wire wound mobile antennas mentioned in ads that claim them to be "full-wave" or "moving ridge and a half". At best, yous are being deceived by the misleading association of wire length to actual operation characteristics. Wire length, for all intents and purposes, is irrelevant. With "very" few exceptions, antennas must function as a ane/4 wave or 5/8 wave to be useful on mobile installations. For example, Firestik and Firestik II antennas between two foot and five foot have a radiations design similar to a 5/8 wave reference antenna. Even so, wire lengths range from 20 feet to 32 feet (0.six to 0.9 of a total wave length). If wire length was relevant, each antenna would demand 22.v feet of wire.
TESTING CONTINUITY
Checking your CB antenna system for continuity, shorts and opens is a MUST process and should always precede SWR checks and settings. Exception: Cable supplied with 'No Ground Plane' antenna kits will take continuity between the center lead and ground.
SETTING THE SWR OF YOUR ANTENNA
SWR (standing wave ratio), is a measurement of how efficiently your antenna arrangement will radiate the power bachelor from your radio. In unproblematic terms, your radio would like to radiate all of its power, but can only do so if the other components cooperate. Bad coax and mounts, or inefficient antennas and ground aeroplane can cause system bottlenecks. The easiest way to understand the concept is to think of it in terms of h2o period. That is, if yous put a 1 inch faucet on a ii inch pipe, your potential output will be restricted by the one inch outlet. So goes antenna systems. Setting your antennas SWR will reduce the restriction of radiated ability.
If all radios just transmitted on one aqueduct, information technology would be a much easier job to design antennas. Equally it is, on CB lone, in that location are 40 channels to contend with. Mobile antennas tin just be made to resonate at one specific frequency (channel). The goal of the antenna manufacturers is to build the antenna to resonate at a frequency in the middle of the available ring (channel xix on CB) and make information technology broad- banded enough to proceed the off-frequency related SWR at the two farthermost ends of the band below 2.0:one. It should be noted that if you communicate on 1 or two adjacent channels anywhere within the ring, you can tune your antenna to achieve optimum performance on those channels. Most people, notwithstanding, prefer to use the entire bandwidth when tuning.
THINGS You Volition NEED
- Knowledge of what not to exercise …. read previous sections.
- Properly installed antenna system (mount, coax and antenna) that was made for the type of radio yous will exist using and has been tested for shorts and opens in continuity. (See "Testing Continuity")
- Functional radio.
- SWR meter. (See "SWR Meter Claw-Up")
- Curt slice of coaxial cable (jumper) with PL-259 connectors on both end.
SWR METER Hook-UP
The SWR of the antenna, without feedline, can be measured by placing the SWR meter in-line at the antenna instead of at the radio. Nevertheless, the coax can help or hinder performance. In the end, your SWR should be checked at the radio end because all components volition be a part of the final operational system existence used.
SWR TESTING REMINDERS:
- Remember to check for continuity, shorts and opens in your coax and mount installation beginning.
- Accept measurements in an open area with the vehicle's doors and hatches closed.
- All measurements should be taken with antenna tip on, unless yous do non programme to use the tip in normal use.
THE SET UP
If already connected, disconnect the coaxial cable from the radio. Connect the coax cable that unremarkably connects to the back of the radio to the SWR meter connector marked "Antenna" or "Ant". Now, connect one end of the jumper cablevision to the dorsum of the radio and the other end to the SWR meter connectedness marked "Transmitter" or "Xmit". Your SWR meter is now in series (in-line) with your radio and antenna.
Since you've already read the previous parts of this pamphlet, you should at present accept your vehicle in an open up expanse, with all doors airtight. Turn your radio on and tune to channel one or the lowest aqueduct on your radio. If your radio has side ring operation, make sure you are in AM fashion before doing SWR tests.
The following assumes that your SWR meter has a standard set of switches, knobs and meters. That is, there will be at least one switch with the marking Forward (FWD) in one position and Reference (REF or SWR) in the other. There will too be a knob or sliding controller marked "Set" or "Adjust". Almost meters come with full instructions. If the mutual configuration does not match your meter yous will need to rely on the meters manual for assistance.
With the radio on the lowest channel (1 on CB) and the SWR meters switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the transmit switch (cardinal up) located on the microphone. While holding the unit in this transmit style, adjust the meter needle to the set position using the Set up or Adjust knob on the meter. As soon every bit the needle is in alignment with the corresponding marking on the meter face up, flip the switch to the Reference (REF) position. The meter is now showing your SWR on channel i. Note the value and rapidly release the microphone switch. Record this reading on your paper to the nearest i/10th. i.eastward. 1.8, two.3, 2.vii, 1.four, etc.
At present, switch your radio to the centre channel (19 on CB). Place the meter switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the microphone switch and conform the meter to place the needle on the Set position of the meter face. One time in the set position, place the meter switch in the Reference (REF) position and notation the reading. Release the microphone switch and write this value down to the nearest tenth of a betoken. Note: If your antenna system is closely matched to the radio you may get little or no movement from the meter needle on this channel. This is normal.
Finally, place your radio on the highest number channel (40 on CB). Place the meter switch in the Forward (FWD) position, depress the microphone switch and adjust the meter to place the needle on the Set position of the meter face. Once in the set position, place the meter switch in the Reference (REF) position and note the reading. Release the microphone switch and write this value downward to the nearest tenth of a bespeak.
With these three readings, you tin decide many things about your system. For instance …
- If SWR on channels 1, xix & xl is below 2.0, your radio can be safely operated on any channel without causing harm to the radio's circuitry.
- If SWR on all channels is above 2.0 but not in the "blood-red zone" (normally over 3.0), y'all may be experiencing coaxial cable reaction (bad quality, wrong length, etc.), insufficient footing aeroplane, or have an ungrounded antenna mount.
- If SWR is in the "red zone" on all channels, you probably accept an electrical short in your coax connectors, or your mounting stud was installed incorrectly and is shorted. Practice Non USE YOUR RADIO UNTIL Y'all HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.
- If SWR on the everyman channel is higher than it is on the highest channel, your antenna system appears to be electrically brusque. Run into the following department title "Adjusting Short Antennas".
ADJUSTING LONG ANTENNAS
If the SWR on channel xl is greater than that on channel 1, your antenna is considered to exist "LONG" and reduction of physical height and/or conductor length volition correct this situation. Depending upon antenna model, this entails screwing down the tunable tip (Illustration #1: Firestik II, Firefly), or, removing the tip, making short slits in the plastic covering and unwinding and clipping off wire (Illustration #2: Firestik, Road Pal). Firestik Designer Serial antennas require loosening the allen screws and lowering the metal whip (Analogy #iii).
ADJUSTING Brusk ANTENNAS
If SWR on channel 1 is greater than that on channel xl, your antenna is considered to be "Short" and increasing the concrete and/or electrical length of the antenna is required to correct this state of affairs. Because we make our antennas actress long, readings which indicate "Curt" normally stem from ground plane deficiency (lack of vehicle metal surface for the antenna to reverberate its signal rom). This condition is often corrected by calculation a spring and/or quick disconnect to increment the physical tiptop. Ground plane deficiencies can also exist compensated for by using dual (co-phased) antennas or special no-ground-aeroplane antenna kits.
Lengthening of the Firestik II and Firefly is achieved by turning the tuning screw farther out (Illustration #i). On Firestik and Route Pal models, it requires tip removal, short slits in the plastic covering and, the separation and upward repositioning of iii or more wire turns (Illustration #4). Firestik Designer Series antennas require loosening the allen screws and raising the metallic whip (Illustration #3).
Note: The shorter the antenna, the more than sensitive it is to adjustments. For case, removing two wire turns on a four pes antenna might motility the SWR past 0.iii; the aforementioned amount removed from a 2 pes antenna may move the SWR by i.0. Make smaller adjustments on shorter antennas.
DUAL ANTENNAS
Measurements and conclusion of short or long conditions are the same every bit the single antenna process. Nonetheless, when tuning co-phased antennas, if y'all accommodate ane antenna, it is advisable to adjust the other in equal amounts to keep them in perfect balance.
COAX CABLE PROCESSING with FIRESTIK CONNECTORS
Using ring/spade terminals
Using PRO-259 with cable type insert.
Using Twist-On connector (T6-259 or T7-259)
Using Twist-On connector w/ safety kicking
(BT6-259 or BT7-259)
Using CP-259 to build co-phasing harness
THINGS TO KNOW
- RG-58 refers to whatsoever RG-58 type cable such as RG-58-U or RG-58-A/U.
- RG-59 refers to whatever RG-59 blazon cable such as RG-59-U or RG-59-A/U.
- The "A" designation after RG-58 or RG-59 indicates a stranded middle conductor, wire made up of numerous individual strands versus one solid wire.
- RG-58 blazon coax is 50 ohm cable and is used for unmarried antenna installations of CB, scanner, two-meter, and 10-meter Firestik antennas. RG-eight and RG-8X are other mutual coax types that can be used on single antenna installations.
- RG-59 type coax is 72 ohm cable. It is used for dual (co-phased) CB, 2-meter or x-meter installations. It is as well commonly used for TV antennas and AM/FM receive but antennas. Do not use this coax on unmarried CB antenna installations.
- The length, type and quality of the coaxial feedline tin take a major effect on organisation performance. If in doubt, employ 18ft coax that has the "A" designation after the RG blazon.
- The coax used on Firestik "no-ground-plane" kits must never be altered. It's length and internal features are disquisitional to proper operation.
- The shield on "no-ground-aeroplane" kits is intentionally not used at the mount stop of the coax. Leave equally is.
- The shield portion of the coax cable is almost always used as the ground.
PROCESSING COAX FOR Band/SPADE TERMINALS
- Remove one″ (38 mm) of the cablevision'due south protective cover (see Diagram A, next page).
- Utilize end of boom or other pointed object to unbraid the copper shield. When done, pull to ane side and twist into a single wire. Trim off any loose ends.
- Remove 3/viii″ (10 mm) of the center conductor insulation and dress past twisting strands into one wire.
- If soldering equipment is available, can the ends of both wires.
- If shrink tubing will be used for additional insulation, slide over wire end(south) at this time.
- Crimp and/or solder last(s) to advisable wire. In most cases, the larger of the two terminals will continue the middle conductor. If both terminals are the same size but one has it'south own insulation, this should exist used on the center conductor.
- If shrink tubing was used, sideslip it over the terminal finish and oestrus until properly fitted.
- Test your work for opens or shorts (meet "Testing Continuity").
INSTALLING PRO-259 WITH Cablevision INSERT
NOTE: Soldering iron and solder required for this connector.
- Slide appropriate cable adapter over coax, INS-58 for RG58 cable or INS-59 for RG59 or RG8X cablevision. Make sure wide shoulder is down, threaded portion up (come across Diagram B).
- Remove (unscrew) PRO-259 knurled barrel sleeve from main connector and drop over coax. Make sure that the internal threads are upwardly.
- Remove ane″ (25 mm) of the cables outer comprehend.
- Use end of smash or other pointed object to unbraid the copper shield. Trim to approximately ane/two″ (12mm) long all the style effectually.
- Remove 1/two″ ( 12 mm) of the center usher insulation and clothes by twisting all strands into 1 wire.
- Utilise your soldering iron to can the end of the center usher wire.
- Slide the insert up the cable until the top is even with the trimmed edge of the outer cover. Fold the braided shield over the top of the insert. Make certain the wire does not lay in the treads of the insert. If the complect is a picayune long, twisting the complect effectually the insert will keep it out of the threads.
- Thread the main connector torso on to the cable insert until fully seated. Locate shield through 1 or more holes in main trunk. Heat body and shield at i or more access holes and make full with solder.
- Solder centre usher where it protrudes from center pin of main body. Practise non over make full or pin will exist to fat to fit into mating connector. Trim off whatever excess wire.
- Slide the knurled barrel up the cablevision and re-thread to the main body.
- Test your piece of work for opens or shorts (meet "Testing Continuity").
INSTALLING T6-259 OR T7-259 TWIST-ON CONNECTOR
Notation: Soldering iron and solder required for this connector.
- Select advisable connector for cable type, T6 for RG-58 or T7 for RG-59 coax.
- Remove (unscrew) knurled barrel sleeve from main connector and drop over coax. Brand sure that the internal threads are up (run into Diagram C).
- Remove 1″ ( 25 mm) of cables outer cover.
- Use end of nail or other pointed object to unbraid the copper shield. Trim to approximately 3/8″ (10mm) long all the way around.
- Remove i/2″ ( 12 mm) of the center conductor insulation and dress past twisting all strands into one wire.
- Use your soldering iron to tin the finish of the eye conductor wire.
- Fold the braided shield downwardly over the top of the outer comprehend.
- Thread the main connector body on to the cable until fully seated or the center conductor is at the terminate of the main body centre pivot.
- Solder heart conductor where it protrudes from centre pin of main body. Do non over fill or pivot will be to fatty to fit into mating connector. Trim off whatsoever excess wire.
- Slide the knurled barrel up the cable and re-thread to the master body.
- Test your work for opens or shorts (see "Testing Continuity").
INSTALLING BT6-259 OR BT7-259 TWIST-ON CONNECTOR W/ Condom Kicking
Note: Soldering iron and solder required for this connector.
- Select appropriate connector for cablevision blazon, BT6 for RG-58 or BT7 for RG-59 coax.
- Slide safe boot over cable with large opening upwardly.
- Remove (unscrew) knurled butt sleeve from main connector and drop over coax. Brand sure that the internal threads are upward (come across Diagram D).
- Remove 1″ (25 mm) of cables outer cover.
- Use stop of blast or other pointed object to unbraid the copper shield. Trim to approximately 1/4″ (6mm) long all the way effectually.
- Remove 1/2″ (12 mm) of the center conductor insulation and dress by twisting all strands into one wire.
- Apply your soldering atomic number 26 to can the end of the centre usher wire.
- Fold the braided shield downward over the top of the outer comprehend.
- Thread the master connector body on to the cable until fully seated or the center conductor is at the end of the main body middle pin.
- Solder heart conductor where it protrudes from centre pin of main trunk. Do non over fill up or pin will be to fat to fit into mating connector. Trim off any excess wire.
- Slide the knurled barrel upwards the cable and re-thread to the master body.
- Slide safety boot up cable and snap over the primary body (ii clicks)
- Test your work for opens or shorts (see "Testing Continuity").
INSTALLING CP-259 "CO-PHASING HARNESS" CONNECTOR
Note: Soldering fe and solder required for this connector.
- Remove (unscrew) knurled barrel sleeve from principal connector and drop over both pieces of coax. Make sure that the internal threads are up (see Diagram E).
- Remove 1″ (25 mm) of both cables outer embrace.
- Apply end of nail or other pointed object to unbraid the copper shield. Trim to approximately one/2″ (12mm) long all the way around.
- Remove one/2″ (12 mm) of the center conductor insulation from both cables and dress each past twisting all strands together.
- Use your soldering iron and lightly tin the ends of both center usher wires.
- Fold the braided shield down over the top of the outer cover on both cables.
- Insert each cable into the connector body making sure the centre conductor protrudes from the body centre pivot.
- Solder center usher where it protrudes from eye pin of main body. Do not over fill or pivot will exist to fat to fit into mating connector. Trim off any excess wire.
- Solder the shield on both cables to the principal body using the respective admission hole.
- Slide the knurled barrel up the cablevision and re-thread to the master torso.
- Test your work for opens or shorts (see "Testing Continuity").
NOTE: If you volition be using grommets to protect your cable where it passes through the vehicle body, make sure the grommets are on the cable earlier processing connector(due south).
Source: https://cbradio.co.uk/cb-radio-tips-and-tricks/
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